• Los Angeles USA

31st August 2008

Los Angeles USA

Disney centerOvernight bus rides always seem like a good way to save money on accommodation and to have an extra day for sightseeing until you arrive exhausted to a new city at an ungodly early hour. The first day was spent recovering from the bus ride and wandering historic downtown Los Angeles; seeing the old market, the Angel’s flight, the amazing Cathedral of Our Lady of Angels, the Staples Center and Disney Hall. In the evening Jim and Sandra Kohn came and treated us to dinner at a restaurant that was once an old firehouse.
The following day, Jim and Sandra brought us to their lovely home before taking us out to explore the city. We visited the Getty museum, an amazing and extensive museum that affords incredible views out across the valley. The Getty demands exploration  of at least several hours though days could be spent here. Next we headed to the Farmer’s market and The Grove, an open air mall that ties in with the Farmer’s market. The market is a great piece of Los Angeles history, with fruit and vegetable vendors, food sellers and many other treats. The Grove is more upscale with shopping arranged around open air walking streets with a small park and music performance space in the center. The Blues is allrightAfter our shopping excursion Jim and Sandra were kind enough to drop us off in Hollywood, where we walked along the Hollywood stars, checked out Grauman’s Chinese Theatre and finally grabbed a bite to eat at a French Crepery, before indulging in a little ice cream from the Stone Cold Creamery.

During our stay the Long Beach Blues Festival was on, this two day festival featured Anna Popovich, Eddie Floyd, Joe Lewis Walker, Booker T, Charlie Musselwhite, and Taj Mahal for its second day line up. There was also a smaller stage featuring some great local talent. Before arriving at the show we happened upon the E Hula Mau, a hula and chant competition, featuring Hula and traditional Hawaiian music before spending the rest of our day immersed in the Blues.

Friends of Amy’s from New Orleans, Isil and Grant, took us out for an afternoon trip down to Santa Monica. We walked through the shopping streets and along the walk way above the beach. This was our one star spotting, Turgay saw Ben Harper.
the FOOD!Another highlight of the trip to L.A. was the breakfast feasts they had at the Original Pantry Cafe. The original Pantry Café is opened 24 hours a day and has been opened since 1924, having not closed its doors once in all those years. The Pantry has managed to stay opened through earthquakes, power outages, riots and more and have no plans to close anytime soon, there aren’t even locks on the doors. A very popular diner there were lines waiting for tables every morning we went but the line for counter seating was short so we ate at the counter on both occasions. Everything we ate was wonderful and reasonably priced; we highly recommend it but watch out the portions, they are enormous.

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21st August 2008

San Francisco USA

StepsAfter many delays and mishaps the bus finally arrived in San Francisco (Amy highly recommends booking early and taking the train). Josh, Amy’s brother was nice enough to pick them up at the station and to put them up in his house (home also to John, Glen and the amazing snuggle dog Chewie).
San Francisco is a great city to explore on foot, Amy found a walks San Francisco book on the self in Josh’s house and they utilized it very well in one super sightseeing day. Starting in downtown walking through Chinatown and Little Italy finally winding up the steep streets and stairs to Coit Tower. Coit Tower is built on top of telegraph hill and is named after Lilly Coit a somewhat eccentric resident of San Francisco in 1933. After taking in the views from the top of the tower and descending the steps on the other side down to the waterfront, it was time for a long visit with the resident Sea Lion population of Pier 39 . Later after heading down past Fisherman’s wharf to Ghiradelli square where after a break for hot chocolate the walking continued with more steps to see Lombardi Street and the curviest street in the world.Lombardi Next stop was Barbary Lane on Russian the small back stairway featured in Armisted Maupin’s Tales of the City. From there it was back through Chinatown finally arriving at the starting point and getting back on the MUNI to return to Josh’s house. Hunger took over and forced a stop off in the 9th and Irving neighborhood, home to many restaurants and cafes, where Milano pizza was open and waiting. Following a good dinner of Pizza and salad, Amy and Turgay probably made the most ridiculous decision of the day and walked the 40 odd blocks back to Josh’s house. It was an exhausting but rewarding day of sightseeing.
Pa tells Ma all about itAnother good city walk is the Coastal Trail which runs from Ocean Beach to The Golden Gate Bridge. On the beach there are surfers, sun bathers, swimmers and the occasional frustrated artist who has come to create in the sand. The Coastal Trail passes near the windmill in Golden Gate Park, following the beach and up the hill, past the stairs that head down to the ruins of the Sutro Baths. The trail winds its way uphill and down along the coast mostly through forested trails with stunning views out over the ocean and bay but it also continues through some of the more upscale neighborhoods, before finally ending near an old fort at the foot of thethe dunes Golden Gate Bridge. The bridge is a spectacular piece of engineering and walking across it though a bit crowded with bikes and pedestrians is well worth it. The views out over the bay are beautiful and we spent a long time looking out over the water and watching the kite boarders jumping the wake of the ferry boats as they passed under the bridge.
Ocean Beach is a beautiful place for evening strolls and with Josh’s house located so conveniently near both the beach and Golden Gate Park it was easy to spend many hours just wandering. The park is full of wonderful surprises; there are lakes, meadows and woods, formal botanical gardens and a Japanese tea garden with a beautiful pagoda and good green tea.reflections At the top of the Park they explored Haight street home to the hippy movement of the 60’s, there Turgay discovered Amoeba Records with its very extensive blues section, and to their surprise it also had a decent Turkish music section. With so many places to explore there are myriad reasons to return to San Francisco and continue the exploration.
Amy and Turgay had a chance to catch up with some of her friends. They took the train down a little south to see Chris, Todd and Ellie.Tankut and Brady's Hair We hung out at the house and then all went to dinner at a New Orleans style restaurant and dessert at Red Mango, a frozen yogurt and fruit chain. It was wonderful to meet Ellie as a toddler. Another day they met up with Amy’s friend Tankut and his son Brady, after taking the ferryboat to Sausalito they had a wonderful brunch looking out over the water, during which Brady was kind enough to sleep. Amy had several more friends in the San Francisco area that she didn’t get a chance to see because of timing or life getting in the way, but she hopes to get back to the area soon to catch up with everyone.

Home to thousands of wonderful restaurants, one of the highlights to any trip to San Francisco is the food. Amy and Turgay have decided to list their favorite restaurants below. We have provided links to their web sites where available.

  • Chocolate pudding at AlembicJava Beach Café A café located near Josh’s house has excellent coffee, teas, goodies and salads.
  • Burma Superstar Burmese food at it best, we recommend the Rainbow Salad and the Vegetarian Samusa Soup. Josh and Chris shared this with us, thank you, thank you, thank you.
  • Milano pizza In the 9th and Irving neighborhood a good basic pizzeria that is opened late, it’s the smell of the pizzas that will draw you in and the taste that will have you coming back.
  • New Ethiopia Turgay discovered and Amy rediscovered Ethiopian and Eritrean food in this 9th and Irving neighborhood restaurant, we highly recommend it to all. Everything we tried there was delicious.
  • Ton Kiang for Dim sum Josh took us out with his friend Chris to have Dim Sum and we had to be rolled out of the restaurant. Well worth the wait.
  • Alembic We discovered this small bar/restaurant on Haight Street in our wanderings and we were so happy we did. The chocolate pudding is reason enough to go back to San Francisco.
  • Magnolia Open late, with a busy atmosphere this brew pub and restaurant offers great pub food along with some fancier fare, Turgay loved the Cole Porter beer.
  • Arizmendi Miette's Candy ShopA cooperative bakery in the 9th and Irving neighborhood serving great rolls, breads and bagels for eat in or take out.
  • Miette A cake shop and candy store we found they have very tasty macaroons.
  • NOLA Palo Alto CA Great flavors in a good atmosphere, this New Orleans themed restaurant was a great surprise. Thanks to Chris and Todd for sharing it with us.
  • Red Mango This frozen yogurt chain is all over California and in Asia too, a tasty and healthier dessert with fruit and yogurt combos.
  • Bridgeway Café Sausalito A great brunch or lunch spot Tankut and Brady took us here as an excursion from San Francisco and it s well worth the ferry trip across the bay to Sausalito, with great views and inside and outdoor seating.

We all want to thank Josh, John and Glen for putting us up and letting us take over your living room, we hope to return the favor in Istanbul one day. Thanks to Josh and Chris for sharing so many great restaurants with us. Special thanks to Chewie for the morning snuggles.

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18th August 2008

Portland USA

our hosts and TurgayWell originally Portland was not part of the plan but as we all know plans change and when you are travelling plans really are just rough outlines. We arrived in Portland in the late afternoon in the middle of one of the hottest days of the year with absolutely no plan what so ever. Turgay took a look around to find an internet café or somewhere to look at hotels while Amy waited with the luggage and had a rare flash of insight. Aunt Betsy (a former teacher of Amy’s and best friend to Amy’s aunt) was living in Portland with her daughter Kate and Bruce, a photographer that both Amy and Turgay had met on two previous occasions (he was the photographer who gave them the B.B. King photo they were able to get signed in Myrtle Beach). After two brief phone calls one to Kaki (Amy’s Aunt Katherine Gage) and the second to Aunt Betsy and Kate, they were in a taxi on their way to the house and at the insistence of Aunt Betsy they would be staying there.wading oneonta gorge
It was a wonderful weekend and Aunt Betsy, Kate, Bruce and their friend Pauley were the ultimate hosts, showing them around the area and the city and Pauley putting them up in his spare bedroom as Kate and Bruce’s was already occupied with their niece.
On Saturday after a wonderful pancake breakfast we all piled into the car and headed out to visit the Columbia River Gorge and the surrounding waterfalls (of which there are many). We had a wonderful viewing the gorge from different vantages before heading into the cooler realms of the forested waterfall area; finally we climbed over log jams and rocks to Oneonta Gorge. During or hike into Oneonta Gorge there was a point where the water was waist deep and only Bruce decided to forge ahead the others contented themselves to sit and watch the waterfall from a far. Betsy gets ready to drinkOn Sunday Aunt Betsy, Kate and Bruce took Amy and Turgay to explore downtown Portland. In downtown they went to the markets that have all sorts of different handicrafts, from artistic blown glass to different types of wearable “art” made from household kitchen items. They also visited one of the largest Aunt Betsy treated them all to lunch at a local café and brewery where they tried a beer sampler of eleven different types of beer. That evening after reluctantly said goodbye, with many many thanks or the great hospitality and hopes of seeing each other again soon, Amy and Turgay boarded a Greyhound bus bound for San Francisco.

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16th August 2008

Seattle USA

The MarketSeattle is a city that Amy knows well having lived, worked and attended university there for 5 years. In Seattle they couchsurfed with a very nice guy named Allen and his two friendly beagles. While in Seattle Amy showed Turgay some of the major sites of the city and stopped in to visit some old friends, especialy Stefanie and David at the Canterbury Pub. Also while in Seattle, Amy finally got a decent haircut from the best stylist in the world Rajpaul at Integra Hair Designs.
the sculpture park treeThey visited the famous Pike Place Market, situated above the waterfront in downtown Seattle. It is a public market full of tourists and local alike, a wonderful place to buy organic produce, fresh fish, a cup of coffee (Pike Place Market is home to the original Starbuck’s), a French pastry, a mini cheesecake, a pipe, a Russian cheddar cheese roll, a t-shirt, a souvenir, Turkish dolma, and much more. Nearby Olympic Sculpture Park is a beautiful open air sculpture park with permanent and changing exhibits before taking a long walk down the waterfront to Pioneer Square, home of the original Seattle settlement. In the Pioneer Square area they spent some time in the fabulous Eliot Bay Book Store, before taking the elevator up to the top of smith tower to view Seattle from its two enormous stadiums to the iconic Space Needle.the needle at sunset The weather was absolutely beautiful as it usually is for two months of summer every year and they were able to see a spectacular sunset from Capitol Hill where they sat on the side walk with locals from the surrounding apartments and just appreciated that Seattle can be an amazingly beautiful city. They took the Amtrak train to Kelso Washington to visit Amanda and Arielle at their home there, it was a wonderful treat to see them both and also to see how much Arielle had grown in the last two years, she’ll be taller than me soon. After a lovely dinner they boarded the train to Portland.

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6th August 2008

Bellingham USA

Merrilee cokks crabsBellingham Washington is home to Amy’s mother, the wonderful Merrilee Kullman. We spent a relaxing ten days walking in the woods around, playing with Luna (Merrilee’s Australian Shepherd) wandering the streets of old Fairhaven and downtown Bellingham, cooking dinner together and doing a little extra preparation for the rest of the adventure. Amy and Turgay even prepared a Turkish meal for Merrilee and a friend. Another day they went and bought fresh crabs that Merrilee then boiled up for them, delicious another night we had a wonderful dinner together with Merrilee’s neighbors Candy and Dean.
Amy’s mom lives off a private road out in Whatcom County about a 25 minute drive from the town of Bellingham, Washington. The home is situated on 10 acres, with most of the acreage being sloped woods. Neighbors are also on large plots of land nearby down an unpaved tree lined road. Luna and the roadIt is a magical place and Merrilee, a master gardener, has done an incredible job landscaping her garden and pond, at the same time she has been dedicated to replanting the woods with a variety of native conifers.
Bellingham is a small town that has grown into a small city in recent years, the downtown has old brick buildings and is complimented by Fairhaven a quaint old town that was incorporated into Bellingham. Turgay and Amy especially enjoyed the farmer’s markets full of organic produce from local growers, La Vie en Rose bakery in downtown Bellingham and the Colophone Café in historic Fairhaven.
Their final day in Bellingham they took Luna to Whatcom Falls Park, a beautiful WPA park with waterfalls, swimming areas, old stone bridges and an off leash areas for dogs. They ended their stay in Bellingham with a Greyhound bus ride to Seattle.

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5th August 2008


gezelim_gorelim_usa_eng by you.

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3rd August 2008

Bobbie Burns to Bugaboos Canada

heli-overYou can hear them before you see them the whop whop of the helicopter rotors, the anticipation builds as the wind from the blades pushes against you and you lean into it. The adventure began on a helipad near Golden, British Columbia, everyone is gathered in groups; transferred up to the Bobbie Burns Lodge. The helicopter rises into the air and you are surrounded by a wall of noise, overwhelmed by the landscape; snow peaked mountains, seemingly endless forests interspersed with Alpine meadows and high mountain streams, glacier lakes of a blue so turquoise it seems unreal. This is adventure was organized through Canadian Mountain holidays, an outdoor adventure company that focuses on Heli-sking in the winter and hiking in the summer months. The Bobbie Burns are a beautiful sub-range of the Columbias.Bobby Burns Lodge
The lodges are beautifully situated in isolated valleys, offering all the amenities such as Jacuzzis, sauna, steam rooms, gourmet meals, rooms with incredible views, a full bar, massages but what makes the experience so wonderful is the amazingly friendly, knowledgeable, helpful staff. Our group spent a week hiking and staying in two lodges the Bobbie Burns and the Bugaboos each wonderful in its own right. For both lodges our schedule was the same we woke up early for stretching class and after an amazing and varied buffet breakfast we fixed our own bag lunches with sandwiches, dried fruit, chocolate, carrot and celery sticks, fresh fruit, and sometimes little extras like sardines or mixed nuts. We would then head out in groups sometimes as a family and other times according to desired difficulty to board the helicopter and be ferried to a remote location to start our hiking.Along the ridge The scenery was spectacular and the difficulty ranged from easy to rather challenging. We would spend the entire day hiking, having lunch n a remote spot usually with an incredible view. In the afternoon we would be flown back to the lodge where there were snacks, cheese plates, nachos, or other such goodies awaiting. Before dinner there was time to relax in the sauna or get a massage or simply sit by the fire with a good book. The dinner was a gourmet affair, followed by a marvelous dessert. After dinner we played board games or just chatted until we fell into bed exhausted but happy.
One of both Amy and Turgay’s favorite days out was the day that along with Hillary, Josh and Katie they did the Via Ferrata, a series of suspension bridges, permanent climbing lines and a very long repel from near the summit of Mount Nimbus.coming across This type of climbing is based on the system used to transport troops over the Dolomites during the First World War. It is a very safe system as you are always hooked to a cable but it is an extremely exposed climb and can be very challenging to pretty terrifying at times, but the feeling at the end although you are battered and bruised is total exhilaration.
Our final day hiking in the Bobbie Burns was spent near the Columbia Glacier; it is amazing to witness the awesome power of ice. We also flew down to take a look at a river that flows from beneath a glacier forming a beautiful ice cave. After a quick snack we all went down to the valley to do the adventure trail where we all tried our hand a zip lining, ice caveate wild strawberries and took a beautiful hike through the woods along a river.
The day we moved to the Bugaboo lodge was another memorable hike as a whole family on Grizzly ridge. It was absolutely freezing, windy with snow falling horizontally; not prepared for the cold or the wind and everyone had to scramble to get themselves and the kids ready and keep Aiden from blowing off the mountain. Our Guide Jasper was wonderful getting us out of the wind and finding places for us to play games and keep warm until the helicopter could come and get us. Our family, being who they are did the Hokey Pokey and turned themselves about. frozen smilesLater that same afternoon those of us who had continued hiking were lucky enough to spot a mother bear and her two cubs though they quickly (and thankfully) ran away from us.
The Bugaboo Lodge is as beautiful as well situated as the other lodges but has the added bonus of a climbing wall in its stairwell that reaches from the ground floor to the third floor ceiling. All of the kids gave it a try and most everyone made it to the top. Amy and Hillary formed an addiction of sorts to it and tried all the routes, finally succeeding to climb them all even the most difficult though the effort was great. Everyone goodbye at the lodge after breakfast on our final morning and took the final helicopter ride down to the helipad. Amy, Turgay, Josh and Merrilee all piled into Merrilee’s car for the drive back to Bellingham which they managed to do in the same day.

– Heli-Hiking Heliday 2008 –

We want to thank all of the staff at both lodges and CMH for everything; with special thanks to Bruce and Karl for not losing any of us on the Via Ferrata and to Jasper, Paul and Mary Beth for being such sports and putting up with our whole family and a special thank you to Mikey for showing us his Blue Steel. Also a thank you to all the office staff at CMH you may be behind the scenes but the work you put into to organizing all of us was very much appreciated.
We want to thank Amy’s Tante for giving us our Family Ties T-shirts, they are wonderful momentos of the trip.
Our biggest thank you goes out to Merrilee (AKA Mom) for bringing all of us along with you on this wonderful adventure and of course to the late great Freddy Kullman for starting what looks to be a family tradition 10 years ago with the families first Heli-Hiking adventure.

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27th July 2008

Calgary / Banff Canada

peeking outCalgary is a small town that’s become a big city of just over one million people; it is a clean city of curiously empty streets and a great deal of construction projects. We arrived in the evening and this was our first couchsurfing destination (for more info on the couchsurfing project please visit their website www.couchsurfing.org). We stayed in a house in a nice residential area just outside of downtown, with hosts Jenni and Greg. We were able to walk all over the downtown area, Calgary Olympic Park, the Prince Island Park, the rather small but still nice Chinatown and other sites. Being a relatively modern and young citysummer in Calgary Calgary doesn’t offer much in historical sites but it’s bike and walking trails by the river and its many parks scattered around make it a pleasant city for exploring. The thing that left the largest impression on Amy was the extensive outdoor sculpture collection and the giant dandelions.
There was a Folk Festival on at the time in Prince Island Park and had we had more time we would have done as our host Greg does every year and volunteered (thus gaining free entrance in exchange for a few hours of work) because the ticket price was far out of our budget range. We did discover however that you could hear and watch the concert on the big screens from across the river so we got to watch the Carolina Chocolate Drops. artistic visionWe spent two days exploring the city and after two and a half months in mostly small towns across Central America we indulged in the modern city life, new release movies (Batman Dark Night), microbrews and endless selections of toiletries. Our last night we had beers with Jenni and another couchsurfing host at a local Cowboy/Rock bar, the couchsurfing community is very strong in Calgary with a lot of organized events and meetings. Jenni was kind enough to get up early and drop us at the airport on her way to work so we could catch the airport shuttle to Banff, where we were going to hook up with Amy’s family for a Heli-Hiking trip in the Canadian Rockies.
Banff is a tourist town in the most literal sense of the word, it was go slowdeveloped in the late 19th century after the railroad arrived and then further developed with the opening of the road in 1912. It is without question the most popular tourist destination in Canada. It is in one word spectacular. Set in Banff national park it is surrounded by soaring mountains, emerald forests and bubbling hot springs. We only spent a day and a night in Banff but it is somewhere we would definitely return to in the future. It is here that we met up with Amy’s family her mother Merrilee, Aunt Cynthia (Tante), brother Josh, Sister Hillary, Brother in law Victor, Merit Sister Katie, Cousin Mark, Mark’s better half Patty, nieces Abigail and Juliet and last but not least Nephew Aiden. After a raucous dinner in the local pizzeria and an early night we all set out together early in the morning to start our Heli Hiking adventure.

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24th July 2008


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22nd July 2008

Santa Elena – Monteverde Costa Rica

the reserve
Walter Ferguson – “National Park”
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Santa Elena is a Tico (Costa Rica) town founded sometime in the 1930s by loggers and farmers; it adjoins the Quaker town of Monteverde which was founded in 1951 by Quaker pacifists who had been jailed in the U.S. for refusing to be drafted into the Korean War. This Quaker immigration changed the area forever; they set up dairy farming while preserving large tracts of cloud forests. Cloud forests are rain forests that are generally swathed in mist or clouds. In 1983 National Geographic printed an article and photographs of the area and the tourist movement was born. Monteverde is home to the Quakers and upscale resorts and restaurants, while Santa Elena has more budget accommodations and eateries, though a new large mall is under construction and threatens to change the feel of this small community forever.sunset
After checking into our hotel the Quetzal Inn in Santa Elena because our original choice of Pension Santa Elena was fully booked we grabbed a burrito for lunch and headed out to explore the area. We passed many attractions, the butterfly museum, the insect museum, the orchid museum but after the rest of Central America we found the prices very high so we just kept walking. We ended up walking all the way to Monteverde (not really that far only about 20 minutes) where we found Michelle and Maggie’s hotel along with Michelle, Maggie and Corey. They were heading out for a tour so we made plans for dinner later that evening. Despite the fact it had started to rain Amy and Turgay decided to continue their exploration of the area and we continued on down the road. Amy spotted a sign along the side of the road for a waterfall and being unable to resist waterfalls encouraged Turgay to go along the trail to see it. rushing streamAfter entering the trail and paying their entrance fee it began to pour rain but they persevered and half climbed half slid their way down to somewhere near the waterfall. The water having risen with the rain caused them to decide to view the waterfall from a distance; it just seemed the sensible thing to do. Now soaked to the bone Amy and Turgay were still unswayed from their goal of the Monteverde dairy to taste some of the famous cheese and ice cream, unfortunately when they arrived it was closed. On the way back they passed a bakery and partook of refreshments (pie and tea). They met Michelle, Maggie and Corey for dinner at a Tapas bar Chimera which proved to be very good.
The next day after planning to meet up again for dinner and a breakfast of really good pastries (especially the pineapple) really nowand croissants at Bakery Jimanez, we went to the Santa Elena Cloud Forest Reserve. This reserve is at a slightly higher elevation than its more famous neighbor Monteverde but it boasts 12km of trails and considerably less tourists. We saw a great deal of butterflies and hummingbirds and mist shrouded trees and while beautiful was somewhat less populated by animals than they had expected. They did see a wild boar, however how wild it was is up for debate as it was hanging out in the parking lot of the reserve letting people pet it. All in all it was a beautiful setting and a good hike. They returned to Santa Elena and then met up with whattheir friends again for a pizza dinner at Pizzeria de Johnny, which despite the name is a rather upscale Italian restaurant, well upscale to our recent standards. Amy and Turgay said goodbye to their friends and headed back into Santa Elena and bought their bus tickets for the next morning.
The next day after checking out of our hotel and returning to the bakery Jimanez we found out that due to heavy rains and washed out roads our bus would not be coming today and maybe not tomorrow. Having checked out of our hotel we found a cheaper option for the night Cabines Vista al Golfo and spent the afternoon and evening just hanging out. The next morning the bus was a go so they caught it to the San Jose airport, their flight wasn’t leaving until the next day so they took a cab (the driver got a speeding ticket along the way but was unfazed as his brother in-law was the mayor or something of the sort) into Alujela, a town much closer to the airport than San Jose and spent the night there before taking a flight to Calgary Canada.

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