• Savai’i Samoa

9th September 2008

Savai’i Samoa

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Sunrise at ReginasArriving via ferry into the port town of Salelologa, a Samoa public bus awaited for the trip to Manase. Bus riding in Samoa is a unique experience; people actually stack themselves on top of each other. As the bus fills up people begin to sit on each other’s laps in order of oldest to youngest on top. Foreigners are given their own seats (but Amy did have a child on her lap most of the trip). After the laps have been filled people begin to stand in the aisle, packing goods in along with them, stereos, boxes, groceries, etc. When a person wishes to get off they pull the cord that rings a bell, after the bus stops everyone in the aisle files off, they wait for the person to get of and then they file back on. ma and pa take it easyWhat Amy found so interesting was that one person would get off and sometimes maybe 60 or 70 meters later another person would pull the cord and the whole process would start over again, but without any grumbling from anyone.
Regina’s beach Fales, a family run set of beach fales with 3 set meals, in the town of Manase was reached with out incident but with a lot of stacking and stopping. Fales are small bungalows sometimes wood clad but generaly using traditional woven mats as walls. They usualy lack electricity for most of the day and the meals are fixed and eaten at set times. They foster a sense of community among travelers that one would be hard pressed to find anywhere else. Kaye Peter and the HarleyWhile staying in a fale you feel no guilt over doing nothing but reading a book, staring at the ocean waves all day and chatting with other travelers. The most memorable couple we met in Manase were Peter and Kaye Forwood, who have been traveling the world for 12 years on their Harley. When we met them they only had 2 of the 192 countries recognized by the United Nations left to visit. You can read about their adventures on their blog at http://harleyforwood.com. We also met a wonderful woman,Julie from Australia, who had come to volunteer her time in a school on Upolu and was taking a break before she headed back home. We gained a greater insight into the society and culture of Samoa through her stories and experiences.
ArchOur time at Regina’s was the most relaxing part of our trip so far. We did take a day off from relaxing to go diving on a reef wall and a wreck with nearby Dive Savai’i. The wreck is the remains of a late 19th century English vessel, the Juno, that was bring missionaries to the island, it originally ran aground on the reef and everyone escaped unharmed but it has sense sunk to a depth of about 22 meters. The highlight of the wreck dive was the chance to see an electric flame scallop with two cleaner shrimp; it looked like a shrimp disco with the scallop pulsating red light and the shrimp boogying down.
There came a point during our time on Savai’i when we thought we should see some more of the island, so we shared a taxi back to the port town of Salelologa and checked into Lusia’s Lagoon Chalets. Here we booked a tour, with Safu Tours, Warren a geologist who has lived all over the world, gave us a great tour and insight into the geological past of Samoa. With Warren we saw volcanic sea arches, the Alofaaga blowholes, Lovers Leap, and the Tafua Peninsula Rainforest Reserve where while looking down into the Tafua Savai’I Crater; we spotted the rare Samoan flying foxes. The next morning we boarded the ferry and made our way back to Upolu.

Places to Stay in Savai’i

  • Regina’s Beach Fales spacious fales located as the name suggest directly on the beach, run by a wonderful family these fales are not as modern as others in the nearby hotels but the atmosphere is worth the lack of electricity. The meals are included in the price and ranged from a little boring to a delicious feast on Sunday.
  • Lusia’s Lagoon Chalets small well spaced bungalows are situated on a lagoon that affords wonderful swimming and kayaking. The restaurant was good and reasonably priced.


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